Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Cathodes, LED's etc Tue Aug 11, 2009 8:15 pm
Hey peeps,
I'm building a reactable (just google it if you don't know what it is) and I'm looking into ways of lighting the inside of the box, but also have it look cool. At the moment I'm thinking of something like Cathode tubes or LED's.
I'm wondering if anyone knows where I could get them from, either in Brissy, or cheaply online.
I've got an old pc working to run as the brains of the instrument, and I'll be building the wooden enclosure this weekend, as long as work pays me. It should be awesome once it's done.
Zygurt
EDIT: Another option is those usb powered LED lights that plug into a usb port like this.
And if I had unlimited money, one of these would be awesome as well.
win Guest
Posts : 105 Points : 5812 Join date : 2009-04-21 Age : 34 Location : Gold Coast
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 12:14 am
you should get a blacklight or something, that would be pretty cool
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 2:36 am
Yes it needs to be backlit so that the camera can see the markers that I put on the table, hence my question as to where to buy lighting stuffs.
(F_ck) Pauline.. Guest
Posts : 36 Points : 5646 Join date : 2009-07-31
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:13 am
LightsRus
Dessicrater Senior FTW Member
Posts : 2783 Points : 8771 Join date : 2009-02-19 Age : 41 Location : Porto, Victoria
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:15 am
whatever that thing is...it looks like a waste of cash lol, cool but a waste of cash. Whats wrong with just saving your cash and buying Reason 4/FL Studio/Kontrol/Kore 2/Ableton ect ect? There is an aussie product that is sort of similar but uses translucent buttons that can have its imprint images changed electronically, very cool peice of equipment without looking like theme park equipment.
Good luck to your build though, LED's are the right choice as power wise and illumination are good
Thats what I was talking about, cool bit of gear
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 3:44 am
Well I already own Pro Tools 8 and Sibelius 5 and I'm a beta tester for Propellerheads Record. The main thing with the reactable is that it's a different way to control sound rather than using a mouse or midi keyboard.
Where abouts would I get these LED's from? I found some on the same site that I linked to with the usb led light, but postage was more than the LEDs themselves.
Dessicrater Senior FTW Member
Posts : 2783 Points : 8771 Join date : 2009-02-19 Age : 41 Location : Porto, Victoria
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 4:10 am
well you could try jaycar, they do alot of electronics self building shit, Im sure i've seen a thing for 12v LEDS and downlights and such that you can buy, plus they are aussie too.
how simple lol front page has LED's and shit on it haha
buckethead121 Senior FTW Member
Posts : 978 Points : 6917 Join date : 2008-10-27 Age : 39 Location : Hamiltron
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:39 am
Mmm i usually buy specialize electronic components from farnell.com, they have an Aussie branch and they are very competitive prices. PS.Buy as much crap as you can because there only a minimum postage of $20 i think so it might be less if it post in Aus, but that $20 will post anything so it could be one LED or could be 500000 Led it will still cost you $20 to post
ifweavfnya Guest
Posts : 710 Points : 6431 Join date : 2009-01-03 Location : Where you least expect it
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Wed Aug 12, 2009 10:33 am
i've made some of my own multitouch hardware so i can help you out here. firstly, all the information you want on something like this you can find on nuigroup.com/forums if your talking about a white backlight to illuminate the LCD or whatever you use to display the image, then the best way to do that is use a piece of endlighten, side lit with LED strip lighting.
Endlighten is like acrylic that contains tiny reflective particles that are angled so that light coming in from the side is diffused out hte flat sides, working as a backlight. the bset place to get this is here http://www.acrylite-shop.com/US/us/acrylite__endlighten/crfo8s7j0ro_artikel_liste.htm but you need to know someone in the US to ship it over. Another easier and cheaper option is to ask someone on the NUI group if they have some endlighten spare, because they use a lot of that stuff for DSI. I know peauproductions has some 14mm sheet he can sell you, pm him if you want.
The best place for LED strip lighting is Superlight, which operate in australia http://www.superlight.com.au/FWS/modules/estore/public/fes_catalog.php?id=1 their superstrip or turbostrip are both good, but the turbostrip is much priceir but your getting much brigher illumination out of that if you need it
edit: dont use cathode lighting, the tubes put out IR light which would intefere with the reactable and RS online is the best place to get electronics, if you select the 'production packaging' option available on most items you get free shipping, so if you need parts order from there, they have shitloads
also, if you wanna see what ive done i can pm pics of my multitouch screen to you
edit edit: actually ignore most of the above, from what i can tell you're not going to have a display just a sensor for the objects, i would pain the inside of the box white, then shine IR led emmiters at that, and mod your camera to detect IR light. If you dont want to do that then I suggest using either red or green LEDs
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Thanks for the info Clerk. Is there a tutorial on modding a camera to detect IR light? I haven't bought the final camera yet, but I don't want to spend heaps of money, but I want one that will track the markers well.
Is there a reason as to why you recommend red or green as opposed to blue or white?
Also, because I have 2 spare molex connectors from the power supply I was hoping to run the lighting off of it, rather than have another cord sticking out of the box. Is this possible or would it just be easier to have another cord running out of the box?
If you could send me some photos that would be awesome.
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like it to work well.
Thanks for the link mr. man with bucket for a head.
if u have a another power supply it won't work unless it is also plugged into a mobo and turned on as u need to trigger the power to go to those molex like a transister, so if u run the cords out of the case that should do as ....well yeah.....i hope this helps.........SERBZ
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
For these, would it be a simple case of connecting it to the molex, or would a resistor be needed?
ifweavfnya Guest
Posts : 710 Points : 6431 Join date : 2009-01-03 Location : Where you least expect it
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Thu Aug 13, 2009 10:01 am
dont use either of those theyre pieces of shit, if you want any info go onto nuigroup.com/forums and look in the hardware section for DI (diffused illumination) which is what your trying to do. If you want MUCH better and simpler results, try DSI (diffused surface illumination) which works with a piece of endlighten (available from the link i sent before) with IR LEDs shining in from the side. The endlighten then diffuses the light out, then when an object is placed on top it reflects the light down for teh webcam to detect. There are 2 ways to do DIS, either with LED strip lighting around the side, or using an aluminium U-Channel with LEDs mounted in holes along the edge. I recommend using OSRAM SFH485P LEDs which are available relatively cheap from RS online http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=sfh485p&x=0&y=0 these are very powerful so you only need about 20 of em for a 17" screen.
Infrared is much better than visible, firstly you wont actually see it so your screen wont look like a red/green blob, and it isnt affected by background light if you use the right filter. here is a great website that explains multitouch technology. http://peauproductions.com/
The best webcam to use is by far the PS3 camera, if you are interested i can explain how to get that working and i can show you how to mod one for detecting IR light. From what I assume, you dont want any visual display, just the sensing. If you do want to include a display it isn't actually that much harder, except it involves dissecting an LCD screen which may not always turn out good
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Bought a playstation eye today. Just wondering how much force you have to use to get the back off it. I've undone the screws and have the top and sides loose, but I can't seem to move the bit around the cord.
ifweavfnya Guest
Posts : 710 Points : 6431 Join date : 2009-01-03 Location : Where you least expect it
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Aug 15, 2009 4:31 am
glad you got the ps3 eye, if you look on nui forums then there should be a few video tutorials in the right sections, and you can post any questions there.
If you want to remove the IR filter the easy way, you can buy a M12 lens mount and cctv lens. here are the best places to get them. If you do it this way you wont get any focus issues associated with the IR filter removal and you can use a wide angle lens:
and look here for an overview of multitouch techniques, you'd want to do DI od DSI because you'll be tracking objects. I strongly suggest DSI though http://nuigroup.com/forums/viewthread/1982/
and once again, nui group forums are the best place to get info from, you can make an account and post questions there if you want
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Aug 15, 2009 6:59 am
Cool cool. I had found most of that, but the bit that got me was the "carefully remove the back". Kind of like if you force it, it would be bad.
I'm really noticing the difference between a normal lense and the wide angle one. The box that I've built could have been half the height. Oh well, it means that I can put something between the camera and teh computer to get rid of reflections, at least until I get round to going IR.
Thanks so much for the help.
ifweavfnya Guest
Posts : 710 Points : 6431 Join date : 2009-01-03 Location : Where you least expect it
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Aug 15, 2009 8:03 am
great work so far, you're just a step away from taking apart an LCD and giving your setup a display. Going IR is a very good idea, if you use DSI (which i recommend) then thats fully compadible with an LCD and doesn't need a diffuser i.e. tracing paper.
I do suggest using a wide angle lens, just make sure the tracker you use works with the fisheye distortion you will get. The best way to mod the cam is to buy the things i posted before, remove the current lens mount and replace that with the lens mount you get out of the cheap webcam (use the screws from the cheap webcam, not the ps3 eye) and then screw in one of the wide angle lenses from dealextreme.
To filter out visible light so only IR shows, you can either use 3 layers of the black photo negative that you see at the end of the exposed strips, or better still you can buy a proper IR bandpass filter which blocks out all wavelenghts of IR except the one you are using. I suggest getting one from here http://shop.ebay.com.au/merchant/omegabob2_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_ipgZ
to mount your bandpass filter to the lens, a bit of blu tack is handy:
as for the IR leds, 850-880nm is the best, as this is what the ps3 camera is most sensetive to (once modified) that bandwidth of IR light. The SFH485Ps are 880 i think.
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Aug 15, 2009 9:50 am
Argh I had a whole post typed but absent mindedly changed page. Gah. Anyway the basics are that.
The surface atm is the size of a 22" 4:3 CRT. I can't think of a time that I've seen an LCD at that size and aspect ratio.
The other thing si that the computer that I'm using in at the moment is actually quite old (Athlon XP 3000+, 512 MB DDR, Radeon 8500) so I think it would have a slight problem running Win7 and the rest of the software. I think that if I make another one in the future it will be more similar to yours with the box just being a monitor connected to a pc.
I'll probably go with just buying a lens mount and band pass filter.
If you're going to add an LCD, i'd only go 17-19", any larger and the LCDs all use the thin flat cables which make dissection a lot harder. You can use a 22" LCD (i did take one apart succesfully for something i'm working on atm) but that is much harder and of course more expensive, i only did it because i got mine free.
The computer you're using will definitley struggle to run the tracking software, but you can use it for testing and shit
If you want some other multitouch apps to play around with, I can send you all my files and the tracker I use
Also there is a driver that allowes you to use a regular tracker that allows TUIO (like CCV, i'm not sure if reactivision does but i reckon it would) to control windows 7 touch so you can use the inbuilt multitouch support in win7
you've got it all right, make sure you know the bandwidth of the IR illuminators you are using because that filter will only work with 880nm illuminators and will block everything else.
if you don't have 880nm IR illuminators then you should get them because the PS3 eye (and any other webcam) is WAY more sensitive to the lower bandwidths, and 880nm will server you best there.
I simply put a large wad of blu-tack on the bottom of the PS3 eye circuit board and stuck that to the bottom of the case, i wouldn't bother with keeping the housing of the ps3 camera. I also covered up the LEDs on the ps3 eye with black tape because they faintly showed through the LCD. Also make sure the holes in the PCB directly under teh lens are covered or you may get light intefrence, the blu tack should cover that
and remember that rear DI wont work with LCDs, DSI is the best method for object and finger recognition
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Sweey. yeah I decided to not worry about the LCD part for this build as it will take up more time than I have to use. The IR LED's that I have are 850nm so the band pass is the right one.
I'm glad that you are also using blutack, because that's what I came up with as well, althouh I made 3 similar size balls and stuck it down. Yeah I've long gotten rid of the housing, and leccied over the LED's on the camera. I've also added in a false floor to cover the computer and to prevent reflections. I'll stick some photos up very soon as its almost almost done. Now to learn Pure Data, be creative, compose, perform and then report on what I've done in a 5000 word research paper in a month. Hmm this could be tight.
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
the peauproductions filter has the tightest band and fits in the m12 mount so it will work best, his are custom made by omegabob so you expect them to be the same quality as the ebay ones and his has the best specs so go for that
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Ok so its been a while since I last posted in here and the device has undergone some changes, mostly due to stuff not working. I performed with it last Saturday night at uni and had it as a sound installation as well. Here are 2 videos showing a finished box but the code wasn't fully done yet. I've also just finished rendering a video with my performance and some other stuff in it which is due friday week, so I'll put it up after I've submitted it.
Dessicrater Senior FTW Member
Posts : 2783 Points : 8771 Join date : 2009-02-19 Age : 41 Location : Porto, Victoria
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:39 am
sorry dude but Im not sure if its the mic or whatever but it's pretty hard to listen to, hurts the ears with all the weird sounds. Interesting use of technology.
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
sorry dude but Im not sure if its the mic or whatever but it's pretty hard to listen to, hurts the ears with all the weird sounds. Interesting use of technology.
Haha its a combination of the 2 lol. The idea behind it was to compose with sound rather than instruments, so I think I hit that nail on the head. My performance sounds better because it was recorded properly rather than using the mic on the dodgy shaky cam.
This is kind of what I was aiming for, or at least to have something similar. unfortunately by symbols don't interact.
Dessicrater Senior FTW Member
Posts : 2783 Points : 8771 Join date : 2009-02-19 Age : 41 Location : Porto, Victoria
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:23 am
so as far as I can tell there is no way for you to tell what is interacting with what, you've got to guess. A starting point might be for you to add the 'source' point. A dot like what they have on thier system which is where all sounds start. Also you need to have a projector and something that can read the IR and tell the computer where to project objects around the symbol. I guess you've got the IR set up but no projector system.
At the moment you are getting more like atmospheric sounds with yours than anything you could make music with...unless you invent a new genre
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Oct 24, 2009 3:41 am
I've written symbols on top of the mirrors. like ~ for a sine tone and a square wave for a square wave. I should take a photo next time I'm in at uni of all the symbols on the tangibles (objects).
The other thing was that I wanted it to be something that you experiment with and can make sound right away.
The next one will be more like Clerk's box with a screen and I'm still wondering if I'll use objects again. I was going to use IR, but I couldn't get it bright enough. So I'm using a single lightbulb instead.
Haha make music lol. Its interesting how studying a music degree changes what you percieve as music. For me, music is when a human has deliberately created or manipulated sound, with the purpose of making music or organising sound.
Something that I'll be writing about in my final submission is that by itself (just a recording of the sound) the device fails miserably. It works best when you're actually using it and making sounds. If I were to create "music" (pop/alternative etc) I would have to use it as a single instrument amongst others.
Hopefully a friend who also made one puts a video of his up so I can link you guys to it.
Dessicrater Senior FTW Member
Posts : 2783 Points : 8771 Join date : 2009-02-19 Age : 41 Location : Porto, Victoria
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:36 am
well the only thing is, if you look at reactable, it can have symbols for drum loops and such so you can make a beat, if you can do that too it would be good, I wouldnt say it failed miserably, you should be proud you did something that others wouldn't have had a go at.
Reactable is a interactive mixer with built in synthesizer and sound loop playback, yours could be too I guess but how far do you want to take it.
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
well the only thing is, if you look at reactable, it can have symbols for drum loops and such so you can make a beat, if you can do that too it would be good, I wouldnt say it failed miserably, you should be proud you did something that others wouldn't have had a go at.
These are the objects that I was moving around on the surface. So they do have symbols on them denoting what each of them do, it would be impossible to use if they didn't.
It is possible to use only loops and have them sync to each other, but I chose not to do that, for the primary reason that a friend of mine was building 2 of them and triggering sounds with them. So I wanted mine to be different to his. It was also easier to have it generate what could be described as primatives or the basic building blocks of electronic sound. In the future I'm looking at incorporating a display/visual feedback, as well as interation based on proximity and a sync'd audio system. But for 11 weeks what I've got isn't bad. Now to edit my 5000 word paper on it.
Dessicrater Senior FTW Member
Posts : 2783 Points : 8771 Join date : 2009-02-19 Age : 41 Location : Porto, Victoria
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:40 am
5000 word...interesting!
I understand some of the symbols but whats the 2nd 3rd and 4th vertical lines of symbols mean?
another cool idea would be to invent a touch screen interactive which you can DRAW with your fingers the symbols and such on your display, once drawn you can then make them a permanent movable object on the screen, move them around, adjust properties by sizings or attaching other symbols....man that would look cool.
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Tue Oct 27, 2009 3:38 am
Ok, I find that quite interesting, but I kind of knew that would be the case. When I did the final sound installation on teh night of the performance I had to cut back which symbols I let people use. 1A and 1B are 2 parts of a granular synthesizer, and the same with 2A and 2B.
I wanted to create the device so that anyone could use it straight away, but also make it so tha someone who wants to put more time into learning it has some harder symbols to learn to use.
The middle top is drums (obviously), and the 3 below it are what I call 6-notes. These symbols have the rotation split into 6 different areas to give something tonal for the player to use, rather than just continous variables.
The 4th column is 3 sample symbols. So you put them on the screen and they playback a sample that has been pre-chosen. At the moment, the first 1 is a timing symbol so that I knew how long the performance had gone for, and the other 2 are just random samples. Named 16 and 17 so that any sample that is named 16.wav or 17.wav can be used. The reason for using 16 and 17 is that they are the ID's of the symbols. The bottom one in that column is a awtooth wave.
Top right is a sqaure wave, but instead of going from low to high and then jumping back to the low pitch when crossing the 0/360 degrees, it has the same frequency at the 0/360 degrees and another pitch at 180 degrees.
And yes that would be awesome. The guys that made the original reactable have it so that you can draw what waveform you want with your finger and change the generator to that sound. Creating the gesture library would be the tricky part.
zygurt Guest
Posts : 355 Points : 6207 Join date : 2008-10-04 Age : 35 Location : Brisbane
Subject: Re: Cathodes, LED's etc Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:57 pm
Here is my installations and performance with the Reactable.
I've also uploaded a software version which can be found here. You'll also need to download Pure Data which is the program that I've used to make sound. It can be found here.